PARIS 2e

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The Dark Side of the SAMARITAINE

What or who is currently spooking around inside the old Samaritaine? The former department store complex, right in the center of Paris, which got shut down in 2005 for security and renovation reasons won't open soon. The owner, LVMH, does not show any signs of starting any kinds of work here soon. Nothing has been done, and the building's decay has become more and more visible, even though it is still brightly lit every night, as a part of the Seine illuminations.

samaritaine

The store was first opened in 1869 by Ernest Cognacq and Marie-Louise Jaÿ, his wife and incidentally the first clothing vendor at Le Bon Marché, a rival department store. Cognacq began his trade on the rue de la Monnaie, starting out on a small scale with a very small boutique. By 1900, the couple had decided to expand their enterprise, giving birth to the large edifice seen today, the "Grands Magasins de La Samaritaine."

Inspired by the commercial methods of Aristide Boucicaut to those of Le Bon Marché, Ernest Cognacq drew upon various sources in organizing the ideal (and ideally managed) department store. Through the steady acquisition of neighboring buildings, Ernest Cognacq regularly expanded what could no longer be called a "boutique."

The surrounding city blocks were entirely reworked and reconstructed progressively from 1883 to 1933, notably, between 1903 and 1907, this work was taken on by the architect Frantz Jourdain, whoapplied an Art Nouveau aesthetic to the building.

samaritaine

Further structural changes were successfully completed in 1933 by Henri Sauvage who, in his turn, reworked the architecture to reflect the aesthetic principles of Art Déco. The result was an eleven-story department store, one that is today considered a historical monument.

Falling prey to the national deficit of the 1990s, La Samaritaine saw itself shrink: it was bought in 2001 by LVMH, the luxury-goods company that had just previously purchased Le Bon Marché. On June 15, 2005, in order to update the 19th century building to modern standards of security, or for purposes of restructuring, as the labor unions believe, the department store was closed. It is estimated that La Samaritaine might reopen its doors by the end of 2011.


samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

The more hidden side of the building still bears its original 1900 decor, yet it is decomposing at a very fast pace. Note the dark color in which these wooden panels are painted.

samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

The back alley of the Samaritaine, with the connecting passage to the menswear building. This part shows a cast iron facade with a decor of leaves and various kinds of flowers.

samaritaine

samaritaine

On this panel, it becomes clear that under the ugly dark coat of paint there hides a marvelous gilded age ideal of golden mosaics that have been hidden away from the public eye for a very long time now. The only way to be able to see this now is the fact that someone stole the streetname tag that usually must have covered the space now showing these golden tiles. One wonders what other details are hidden under that coat of dark paint.

samaritaine

samaritaine

samaritaine

Various ads for goods sold in the store are stil somewhat visible on the cast iron parts of the facade. This one says "Eclairage", "lights"

samaritaine

samaritaine

Two abandoned shopping carts next to the Samaritaine, almost a reminder of the lost glory of the neighborhood.

abandoned carts next to a church, Paris

abandoned carts next to a church, Paris

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    I am Cedric, discoverer of things that would go unnoticed in the streets of Paris, historic haven of fashionistas and city of lights ('lights' as in 'enlightenment', not street lights).
    But seriously: I'm an expat from Luxembourg (the country, not the garden), living in the center of Paris (hence 'Paris 2nd arrondissement'), and currenlty studying architectural history...


    benettic3@gmail.com

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